XOX :: Tote Tutorial

This is a soft-style tote bag made with pre-cut jelly-roll strips and an embroidered insert.  *You can also make the bag without the insert, substituting two additional strips instead.  Additonally, any design can be substituted that fits the area.

Prepare embroidered piece before assembling the bag.

The embroidered insert will be trimmed to 10" x 5 ".   Basically, you will cut a larger piece of linen or other suitable cloth for this.   To insure accuracy, mark lines on your cloth as a guide, using a washable fabric pen.  Transfer your design within the lines, making sure to leave the seam allowance areas clear.  Do all embroidery before trimming to the exact dimensions.  Press your embroidered piece lightly on the back to remove all wrinkles before cutting. 

Materials

Lining fabric and foundation piece/heavy cotton batting.  ( I use scraps left-over from my quilt projects for this.)  Cut each : 14" x 24" 

10 pre-cut jelly roll strips:  2-1/2" x 25" -- in various prints.  *You will need 12 if you omit the insert. 

1 yard of 1-inch wide twill tape or med-weight webbing for the handles.

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Directions

Use 1/4" seam allowances.  Sew a strip that has been trimmed to fit each end of the embroidered piece .  Open and press seams flat.

With the foundation piece flat on the table, place the embroidered piece on top, centered and approximately 2" down from the top edge.  Use a few pins in the center to keep it from shifting.

With right-sides together, place a strip along the top edge of the embroidered piece; pin and stitch thru all three layers.  Fold strip right-side up, lightly press seams flat.  Repeat with another strip on the bottom edge of the embroidered piece. 

Keep adding strips down the entire length of the foundation piece in this way.  Trim and square up the sides and bottom edges, using a grid mat and rotary cutter if you have them.

I always like to add a little tab detail on the side of my bags.  This ribbon tape says "cherish".  to make a tab, fold ribbon tape in half leaving extra for seam allowance.  Match raw edges and baste into place with a few stitches.  Leave this flat (as shown) when sewing the side seams.

This is what you should end up with.  Use a zig-zag stitch around all four edges to secure the seams.  If you wish to do any more embroidery or hand-quilting, this is the time.  (I decided to add an embroidered border around my design.)  You can use this as a template to cut out your lining piece as well.   *    *    *  To make a pocket for the lining, cut a piece of fabric about 7" x 7".   Fold it in half with right-sides together.  Sew along two sides leaving one side open for turning.  Clip corners and turn right-side out.  Fold raw edges in, press flat.   Center pocket (with the folded edge at the top) to the bag lining, about 3" down from the top edge.  Pin into place.  Top-stitch close to the edges on three sides, being sure to stitch the opening closed where raw edges were turned inside. *   *   *Assembling the BagUse 1/2" seam allowances.  Fold the foundation piece in half, right-sides facing. Pin edges.  Stitch both sides.  Press seams open.  Repeat for the lining; except leave an opening (not less than 4") in one side-seam for turning later.   Use a back-stitch at the start and end of each seam to secure it.

With right-sides together, match up the side-seams to form a point at the bottom corner of the lining.    Mark a line, about 1-1/2" from the point.  It is helpful to use a grid and ruler.  Pin, and mark the other corner in the same way.  Repeat for the bag.  Double-stitch along the marked lines; secure ends with back-stitching.  Trim corners to 1/2", zig-zag-stitch or serge raw edges.  Turn bag right-side out.  Do not turn the lining right-side out. 

Handles

You can use webbing for handles, or try this little trick I use for making handles with fabric and twill tape.  Take one fabric strip 2-1/2" x 36" long and fold one edge over lengthwise (about 1/2") ; crease with a dry iron.  (Don't use steam here or you'll singe your fingers.)  Insert the twill tape inside the fold to use as a guide for folding over the remaining fabric to get the size you need.  Fold and crease with iron.  Remove the twill tape; place it on top of the strip, covering the raw edges.  Top-stitch both together along the edges.  Cut strip in half, so that you have two matching handles about 18" long.

Pin handles to the bag, with right-sides together (twill-tape facing up), and with the raw edges matching, 2" in from the side-seams.   Baste into place, repeat for other side.

We're almost there, and this is my favorite part.  Slip the lining over the bag, pocket side to the back, matching side seams, and with the right-sides facing.   Pin into place along the top edge, being careful that the handles are tucked inside between the lining and the bag, and are flat.  Sew all the way around the top edge of the bag, with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Next, pull the bag (gently) through the opening in the lining.  Check to make sure your handles are good and everything is stitched together correctly before sewing the lining-opening closed.  Now, push the lining into the bag and ease it into the corners.  Top-stitch about 1/2" around the top edge to finish. 

Beginner's:  try making this smaller version first to improve your skills.